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The Bucks Belly strikes again at ... Moro

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The Bucks Belly strikes again at ... Moro

Paula Sindberg | Apr 2, 2001 01:01 PM

Had a LONG lunch at Moro, 34-36 Exmouth Market, London, last Tuesday. Very nice!

Moro’s has a wood fired oven – this can be a bad thing (if they can’t control it) or a good thing (if it’s done right). Moro’s seems to manage right. Their bread from the oven is almost burned (well, really burned) on top but that seems to add to the wonderful taste. It’s chewy – just the way I like it and has plenty of good grain taste. It’s great with the olive oil that they bring to the table for dipping.

We started with a Manzanilla (La Guita?) half bottle with our tapas. Dry sherry is just the thing to accompany tapas, I think. We had hot chorizo (grilled), pimiento de piquillo (if you’re not familiar with these nifty Spanish peppers, find them, they’re terrific), and fried aubergine with salmanejo (sort of a garlicky tomato sauce). All were excellent. We had a Spanish white wine with this but I didn’t order it so I can’t give details; all I can say is that it was perfect.

My friend had rib of beef with lentils, broad beans, and garlic which was yummy while I had roast pork with potatoes, fennel, and blood orange slices. The pork was a little disappointing – not that it was bad, it’s just that everything else was so good and the pork was ordinary. Oh well! With this and the cheeses to follow we had a 1996 Alion which was sensational.

Our cheeses – we had a portion of manchego and quince paste and their cheese plate which included pico de espana (a blue, I think – in any event there was a nice blue), serena (a runny, vacheron-like cheese that was wonderful), and slices of more manchego. The serena was so good we ordered another portion of it.

We were beginning to lose pace at this point but couldn’t really stop without a sweet, so we shared a delicious yoghurt cake with pistachios with a yoghurt sauce with pomegranate. This needed a pudding wine. The only Spanish wine of note was a full bottle and we had been a bit indulgent so we took a half bottle of Capezzano vin santo.

Two LARGE espressos managed to get us out the door. It’s a good thing that all I had to do after that was to find City Airport for a trip to Switzerland. I slept on the way over.

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