Bruni concedes that when the kitchen is on, there is no better porterhouse in the city, but thinks that there is too much inconsistency in the porterhouse. Sometimes, it is great; sometimes it is not.
Bruni also faults PL for the lackluster dishes that are on the menu alongside the steak, and for some of the various quirks by which the restaurant is distinguish: no credit cards (other than the in house one), gruff service, etc. But these things are less interesting to me.
Concern over the inconsistency of the porterhouse is the important issue raised in the review.
What do you all think?