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Restaurants & Bars 50

Bistro Camino is Hiro and a Chowfind

Vinnie Vidimangi | Mar 14, 200812:48 AM

Bistro Camino
2750 Danforth Ave, between Main and Victoria Pk.
416 698 0283
Full review after further visits

I thought there was something unusual about the place. Three Japanese cooks in whites in the kitchen. White linen napkin and in the bread basket. An extensive,interesting and toothsome menu. And this at Danforth before Victoria Pk. So I chatted up the waitress.

She says that the owner is Hiro. He trained in French cuisine, but when he came to Toronto the people wanted Japanese food, so that is what he gave them. As for the downtown location, nothwithstanding Hiro's fame , the place really didn't make money. High operating costs etc.

So he decided to convert this location to a "French " restaurant.
What is the food like? Its like this. Hiro is cooking outside his culture, and he can't keep his culture from intruding. But aesthetics are a consideration in just about about everything in Jpanese culture, and Hiro is good. So I liked what I had a lot; not really authentic, who cares.

Corn soup: delicious, and not what you would think
Escabache fish; OK , pleasant,
Shortribs. Another surprise. The whole plate was "composed" and delicious. Great accompaniments on the plate, but I would experiment before I would settle for the white rice that Hiro put on.
Cheesecake. I took it home. the beef taste was too full to be followed by dairy. 7 of teh desserts are forms of cream,- icecream, pannacotta, etc the 8th is tiramisu with whipped cream. Look, nobody, nooooobody!, makes a cheesecake like Hugh at Bibiche. This one was a correct ordinary bore, but it carried a good berry sauce topping.

Despite the inference from the list of what I had , Camino is no diner and does not serve diner food. I think that Camino hasn't reached Hiro's aspiration yet, but it will come.

Now the price. All this came to about $25 before tax. And a good and interesting meal, with would have large enough had I had dessert with it. And nothing screwed up by the Emperor's tailors of whom there is no evidence. Chef does need to think about the desserts though, to present variety. As`for the name, how many would think that the place was a tacqueria?

A bargain, and much of it was really good. If something here was not to my taste, the maeal was a lot better than at a chi-chi yup- yup, where nothing was to my taste and less food for much more money.


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