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Have I found the best BBQ in Houston?


Restaurants & Bars 44

Have I found the best BBQ in Houston?

Jaymes | Apr 11, 2011 01:59 PM

I dunno. Maybe.

But first a few caveats:

1,) It isn't really in Houston; it's in Katy. But still...

2.) I know that just because I liked it doesn't mean that everyone will like it. If I hadn't learned long ago that tastes, likes, dislikes, etc., vary widely, I have only to note that Goode Co BBQ is still in business.

3.) Just as it's possible for a great joint to put out an occasional mediocre hunk o' brisket, it's possible for a mediocre joint to put out an occasional great hunk o' brisket. So my experience might not be typical. Although I've been twice, and it was terrific each time.

So, all that said, and while I know I may be far too enthusiastic far too soon, I recently noticed a small food trailer in the parking lot of Sunny's Liquor on the west side of Mason, about a block south of I-10. Emblazoned across the side, in large black letters, it said "BBQ." So I drove up to take a closer look.

The menu looked promising, and there was a black offset smoker puffing out some righteous aromas, so decided to give it a try.

The first thing that gave me considerable hope was that when I asked for my brisket to be sliced "off the high side," the fellow actually knew what I meant. With the exception of Piersons, this is the only other place in Houston that seemed to have any idea what I was talking about (even after listing other commonplace terms - "fatty, moist, wet, the point, the deckle, the fat cap" - to blank and uncomprehending faces).

And my hope was well rewarded. The brisket was delicious, tender, flavorful, moist and smoky - the best that I've had since I moved to the Houston area from Austin a little over two years ago. I chatted up the proprietors, a father & son team. They told me they've been open in that location about a year. After several years as a competition cooker (with the "Road Kill" team), the son is trying to make a go of the barbecue biz full time, and if the two sandwiches I've eaten there are any indication, they deserve to make a go of it.

The name of the place is "Southern Comfort Takeout Kitchen" (281-392-6860) and in addition to barbecue, they're offering cajun items like gumbo, red beans and rice, smoked boudin, and Louisiana-style bread pudding.

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