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Restaurants & Bars 4

If you're going to Atlanta, and someone tells you to go to The Varsity...

boagman | Sep 18, 2011 04:58 PM

...I can actually recommend it! Or at least I can recommend the entity known quite prominently in the South as a "slaw dog", which for all practical purposes is just a (pretty darned good) hot dog, topped with cole slaw. I know, I doesn't sound like anything dynamic or eye-opening, but believe it or not, it's an institution for a reason, I'd say. I had two, along with onion rings and a Coke (do *not* ask for a Pepsi...) and I enjoyed what I had. It's certainly not highbrow chow or anything of the kind, and the onion rings aren't going to be going up against Scotty's or RCT's or anything, but the slaw dog? That's pretty good eatin', I'd say.

I'm *always* leery when people get fixated on local "institutions" as, usually, they're overblown exaggerations of regular food. I'm not saying that it's a revolution in hot dogs at all...I'm just saying that they serve quite a tasty example of their mainstay, and that that part of their reputation is well-deserved. My only real quibble would be that I wish that my actual hot dogs had been a bit hotter, temperature-wise, but that's about it.

No frills kind of place, which definitely milks the whole "we're a local institution" thing, a la Ed Debevic's in Chicago, not that that's a bad thing. So long as your expections are realistic, it's a worthy stop for those on vacation in Atlanta.

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