Restaurants & Bars 2

Arbutus, SoHo, London

limster | Dec 16, 2007 09:43 AM

Some of the best pork I've had in a while: the meat is rolled into a log with a good rim of fat, sliced thinly and arranged on the plate. Densely flavoured porchetta, backed by a tiniest hint of apple sweetness, and smoothed over with just the right nutty level of shaved pecorino. Perfect.

Braised duck is tender, moist and given to just the right shade of livery flavour. Perked up by the sweetness of quince, and contrasting well with salsify that has taken on the richness of the braising liquid, and the clean, vegetal flavour of sprout tops, finely oiled by a thin film of butter.

A chocolate soup made with balanced quality chocolate is more dense and oozey than liquid, and is paired with a side of caramel ice cream.

A decent selection of wines, with many whites by the glass and reds by the carafe (1/3 of a bottle). Friendly, engaging service. Charming space.

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