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Applewood, Largely Right


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Restaurants & Bars 14

Applewood, Largely Right

Sated | Oct 11, 2007 04:46 AM


I had the opportunity to eat dinner yesterday evening at Applewood Restaurant in Park Slope. My wife and I were celebrating her birthday and had been meaning to try Applewood for some time at the suggestion of many; we were largely pleased.

The feel is Vermont lodge meets West Village cozy, and it largely works though the tables and chairs feel austere compared to the warm black and white photos and incomplete bookshelves on the wall. My wife has a word for the decoration style, ungapatchka (sp), which in my wife’s Brooklyn Yiddish means mish mosh.

The service was upbeat and controlled. We started with what proved to be the best dish of the night, roasted pork belly with apples. The pork skin was perfectly crispy and the meat was flavorful, tender, and not overly fatty. The portion was ample and the dish combined the cooked apples perfectly, a true hit. We also shared the Chacuterie, which was not really a chacuterie but moreover there separate tastes, one rabbit remoulade which was gamey and overly salted, and a pork and veal pate, neither of which were flavorful, texture was fine and presentation was lovely, though the depth of flavor was absent.

For dinner, my wife hit it right with monk fish medallions over rich lentils, the fish was excellently prepared, the lentils were a lovely complement to the fish and the medallions sang with flavor and had great texture, firm and moist, lovely preparation.

I mistakenly had the rib eye which was tough and served in five small slices. It was served over kale that seemed to be infused with salt, two bites and I pushed it to the side. The meat was flavorful, though here the portion size had me puzzled and discouraged. At $28, a rib eye order needs to arrive with more than five small slices. I am not looking for a Fred Flintstone slab, though I do presume, and I think fairly, that a streak order will be delivered with a bit more substance.

For desert, we opted to pick up Hagen Daz on the way home so I can’t vouch for the desserts.

All in all, not bad.

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