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Restaurants & Bars

[Ancoats, Manchester] Glamorous

Harters | Feb 26, 201501:38 PM

There’s little to love about the physical side of Glamorous, unless you’re a fan of Chinese kitsch. Situated above the Wing Yip supermarket, the view from the window is of the deck of the multi storey car park. And,inside it's a vast cavernous space – impossible to heat adequately. Which meant that my partner ate dinner wearing her coat, while I smiled bravely in my short sleeve shirt. We had different views about the food, as well as how to deal with the cold. She thought it OK while I thought it was damn good.

To start, vegetarian spring rolls were one of the OK plates. Three rolls, nice crisp non-greasy pastry enclosing some shredded veg, mainly something spinachy. I liked the dipping sauce more than my wife did – to my mind a good balance between soy, vinegar and a little hint of chilli. The damn good starter was fillet steak rolls in Cantonese sauce. Beansprouts and, I think, shredded bamboo shoots, wrapped in the steak. It reminded me of my mother’s beef olives. They’d been given a light coating of flour and then fried to give just a little crispness. The sauce, no more than a drizzle, just added a hint of sweetness.

For mains, mixed veg were stir fried with a satay sauce and were pleasant enough, although we’d assumed that satay would involve a peanutty sauce and this didn’t. My duck dish was one of the nicest things I’ve put in my mouth in a Cantonese restaraurant. The menu said it was stir fried slices but it wasn’t. Instead, I think a whole breast had been coated in a light batter and deep fried before being sliced. So, lovely moist duck flesh, crisp coating and a knockout plum sauce. Really, really good.

There had been a glitch in service from the kitchen that meant one of the starters had to be chased but, other than that, everything was fine. And, seemingly unusual for a Chinese restaurant, service is all smiley. Without doubt, my favourite Cantonese place in the metro area – in fact, the only one now that I would visit regularly.

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