Walking down a street in Amsterdam 20 years ago, my traveling companion and I were lured by the exotic aromas and glut of locals into an Indonesian restaurant. Casual, intimate and inexpensive, we savored an outstanding rijsttafel that has ever since held an honored place in my gastronomic travel memories. I will be returning to Amsterdam this September and looked forward to sharing the experience with my husband; but my internet research has turned up scant praise for any Amsterdam rijsttafel. The few that earn laurels are pricey and appear tourist-infested (translation: The praise is mostly from tourists and the restaurant [Tempo Doeloe] is expensive). Are there no more rijsttafel restaurants in Amsterdam that still appeal to locals?