The brainchild of Waylynn Lucas, former pastry chef at The Bazaar by José Andrés, Fonuts sells an unexpectedly delicious item: the baked doughnut.
uhockey was wary at first since uhockey's own experiments with baking doughnuts yielded dry, muffinlike creations. But Fonuts uses a special technique involving high humidity, pressure, and heat to yield doughnut magic.
The strawberry-buttermilk doughnut is a riff on Dunkin' Donuts' beloved strawberry glaze doughnut, and it's "every bit as good in texture while much better in quality," says uhockey. "[S]ticky and sweet on the exterior with a rich glaze dotted in candied strawberries and progressing to the mellow tang of buttermilk within the moist batter, I can honestly say that with all things being equal I rather doubt I would have been able to distinguish this from a fried version if I were blindfolded."
The maple-bacon is "one helluva" doughnut, says uhockey. "Beginning first with the cake—moist, dense, and as good as if it were fried—this fantastic pastry was next topped with an ample layer of creamy maple frosting" and "piled high with salty smoky bacon."
Though the peanut butter and jelly doughnut is a bit dry at first, the filling is memorable: "the creamy, fruity, and salty amalgam of peanut butter and grape jam at its core," says uhockey.
Fonuts has made a convert out of uhockey: "While some may claim that the 'baked' donut is essentially just a cupcake with a hole, all I have to say to that is if someone wants to start serving cupcakes as good as Fonuts Maple Bacon or Strawberry Buttermilk 'baked donuts' I’ll be there in line with cash in hand."
Fonuts [West Hollywood]
8104 W. Third Street, Los Angeles