Something unusual happens around 11 p.m. at Seo. This Midtown Japanese restaurant morphs into a semisecret noodle shop called Ramen Sanshiro that stays open until 2 or later—something few Midtown Japanese restaurants do, at least those that aren’t also bars.
kosmose7 says the shio (salt) ramen has good, clean-flavored soup, decent roast pork, and agreeably firm noodles—”not great great, but fairly good.” It’s one of just two ramen choices; the other comes in shoyu broth. The rest of the short menu includes tasty grilled chicken and a rice bowl topped with braised pork that nicely balances meat and fat.
The bottom line for kosmose7, whose taste in ramen runs toward places like Hide-chan (especially for its garlic oil–spiked kuromayu) and the always-packed Ippudo, is that Sanshiro deserves a nod, perhaps for its hours and speakeasy vibe as much as for its food. “I was glad to find a decent ramen place that remains open till late,” kosmose7 says.
Ramen Sanshiro at Seo [Midtown East]
249 E. 49th Street (between Second and Third avenues), Manhattan