An avowed “pizza fanatic,” boccalupo had modest expectations when Sottocasa Pizzeria fired up its wood oven last month on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. But instead of the serviceable neighborhood spot he’d hoped for, Sottocasa promises to become one of the best Neapolitan-style pizzerias in town.
The crust is on the money, with good flavor and a nice smoky char. Pliant but not overly soggy—as some Neapolitan-style crusts can be—it reminds boccalupo of the one at the hound favorite Motorino, but with superior texture. Sottocasa’s Italian chef and co-owner refined his pizza skills at Kesté Pizza & Vino in Manhattan. At his new place, “he has exceeded that establishment’s crusts,” says boccalupo.
Among the dozen or so topping choices, boccalupo recommends the Diavola (spicy soppressata and olives), a salty, briny pizza that “packs a massive flavor wallop.” Also exceptional, if comparatively subtle, is the Laura, made with speck and mascarpone. The Radicchio, a white pie made with smoked mozzarella and hot sausage, is also superb, although boccalupo prefers the sausage crumbled, not sliced. egit finds the Diavola “a bit of a salt bomb” but loves the Marinara, with its chunks of roasted garlic and a sauce that “actually *tastes* like tomatoes.” Daniel76 enjoyed his classic Margherita (San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala, basil) in the inviting backyard “but, really, I would happily eat this pizza sitting on the trunk of a car. … This place is a wonderful, authentic and delicious addition to Atlantic Ave. A must-try for pizza lovers.”
Sottocasa Pizzeria [Boerum Hill]
298 Atlantic Avenue (between Smith and Hoyt streets), Brooklyn