The food at Sue Perette is simple, seasonal, and more or less French. Nehna, who is rarely blown away, finds herself blown away.
This month-old spot in the old Café Doré space makes one “stunningly good” Berkshire pork shank, she says, falling-off-the-bone tender and served with cumin cauliflower and greens. But that was just one of a procession of hits from the brief menu: a trio salad of celery remoulade, wine-braised leeks, and marinated mushrooms; the pastifret, a delicious cross of pâté and rillette; double duck, an entrée of roasted breast and braised leg with Brussels sprouts; and, for dessert, fromage blanc with berries, honey, and lemon zest. Others recommend the lentil salad (with arugula, mirepoix, and preserved lemon) and the fish entrée, in a ragoût of fennel, tomato, and olives.
So what about that name? First, it refers to the superette, or French country store, and Sue Perette does sell house-made preserves and pâtés. Second, it’s a nod to the homey cooking of the owners’ grandmothers, both named Susanne. As co-owner Benoit explains, “we decided to make a person out of it, and there you have Sue Perette.” Enchantée, as Nehna might say. “Enough of the generic French bistros,” she writes, “this place needs to survive.”
Sue Perette [Carroll Gardens]
270 Smith Street (between Degraw and Sackett streets), Brooklyn