On a visit to Brighton Beach, flo wandered off the main drag and into dumpling paradise. Varenichnaya’s namesake Ukrainian-style vareniki are meltingly tender bites, she reports: tasty fillings (boiled meat and mushroom-potato are both great) enclosed in silky, thin dough. They come with clarified butter and a topping of golden brown fried onions. Russian-style pelmeni with flavorful Siberian meat filling are “an absolute winner,” flo adds; you can order them alone or in a clear, dill-scented broth.

Varenichnaya is mainly about the dumplings—in fact, the name means “dumpling house”—but flo also enjoyed skewered lamb kebabs, and JH Jill recommends the eggplant salad, garlicky and delicious.

Varenichnaya [Brighton Beach]
3086 Brighton Second Street (between Brighton Beach Avenue and Brightwater Court), Brooklyn

Board Link: Varenichnaya in Brighton Beach, Russian

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