Oysters, oysters, oysters—they show off the first-rate Taiwanese cooking at Andy’s Seafood Kitchen as well as anything, bigjeff suggests. He tried them three ways, and the show-stopper was salt-and-pepper fried oysters, ordered with a dipping dish of the salt-pepper mix they’re cooked with. These were “no joke,” jeff declares, “fresh, sweet beautiful specimens, perfectly hot and juicy inside, great crust and when dipped into the salt/pepper mixture, heaven.” Completing the bivalve trifecta were a “pitch-perfect” oyster pancake and oyster-vermicelli soup, deep in seafood flavor, agreeably thick and goopy, garnished with cilantro and fried onion.

For lovers of Taiwanese chow, who are too often disappointed at New York restaurants, “this is the spot!” promises jeff, who was blown away by “the prep, the care, the heart and the soul poured into our meal.” Alongside dishes from Sichuan and elsewhere, this month-old restaurant does Taiwanese specialties like stinky tofu, various innard soups, the burgerlike gua bao, and the classic san bei ji (three cups chicken), unhelpfully translated as “chunk chicken with basil.”

Others report commendable versions of tea smoked duck and chicken with eggplant, and a budget special of two lobsters for $18, steamed with ginger and scallions. But bigjeff is sticking to the Taiwanese specialties; “let’s keep the chef churning out the quality regional dishes,” he urges, “and don’t let them get trapped into the drudgery of making sesame chicken all day long.”

Andy’s Seafood Kitchen [Rego Park]
95-26 Queens Boulevard (near 63rd Avenue), Rego Park, Queens

Board Link: Andy’s Chinese Restaurant, Rego Park

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