Once more, September brings a crop of obligatory back-to-school lunch articles in newspaper food sections.The passionate and profane Ann Cooper is raising the profile (and nutrition content) of school lunches in Berkeley, and it seems like schools everywhere (not to mention ex-presidents) are jumping on the improving-school-nutrition bandwagon.

Kids from St. Paul to Baltimore are weighing in on the removal of junk food from their diets. Some are happy to be healthy; others protest the loss of fries, chips, and other junky delights. Apparently, lunch is harder than it looks. As Cooper notes in a galvanizing New Yorker article, reprinted on her blog, it’s difficult to make a healthy meal for 4,000 when the ingredients you have access to are mainly USDA surplus (that means meat and milk and cheese, folks —not the most anti-obesity foodstuffs on the planet). Parents who are truly concerned can go the DIY route—just don’t go overboard.

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