Chef Laurent Manrique made his name in San Francisco (Aqua, Fifth Floor) but has been relatively little-known in New York. That’s changing fast now that he’s opened Millesime, a seafood brasserie in the grand old Country space at the Carlton Hotel.

Hounds applaud the sure-handed execution of dishes that range from the classic to the globally inspired. rrems recommends an appetizer of pike quenelles in rich lobster sauce. doubledoc likes hamachi tartare with shiso and lime-ginger cream (the tuna version is made with dates, mint, and North African spices). Monica loves the lobster “pot-au-feu” for two, a flavorful two-pounder in creamy sauce Choron. Fish entrées, seared à la plancha or grilled, are minimally embellished with a choice of sauces. rrems and companion tried sea bass with orange-saffron vinaigrette and snapper with ginger beurre blanc, both delicious and cooked to a turn. (rrems faults only uneven pacing; a limited, un-brasserielike beer selection; and annoying loud music drifting in from the bar area.)

invinoveritas, a fan of the chef’s California restaurants, sums up Millesime this way: “The perfect execution of classics and innovative items is the main draw for me. … Chef Manrique knows seafood.”

Millesime [Murray Hill]
92 Madison Avenue (at E. 29th Street), Manhattan

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