Wolvesmouth Underground Dinners are a new-ish way to dine: secret locations, mailing lists, and the like. They are only underground in the relative sense, since the dinners are all over the blogs and Chef Craig Thornton has been on Last Call with Carson Daly, pimping his Underground Dinners. And the location is secret only in the sense that you have to sign up for his mailing list ahead of time to be told the “secret.” But still, we take what excitement we can in our hollow modern lives, eh?

Anyway: Get on the mailing list, and you’ll get an e-mail about the next underground location that will host a large, multicourse, world-eclectic dinner, tilted a little toward the sweet side of the palate.

pleasurepalate got to enjoy the punch-y, sweet pleasure of squash, maple syrup, and sweetbreads. Other delights included perfectly seared scallops with earthy chanterelle mushrooms over riced potatoes, sautéed in brown butter.

Also lovely: ocean trout, lingonberry, and crème fraîche over pumpernickel. “I loved how the ocean trout was browned to perfection and yet, the fish was still moist,” says pleasurepalate. “The lingonberry’s fresh tartness and the pumpkernickel’s slight tangy-crunch also added punches of flavor to the mild fish.”

There are touches of the molecular new, like a nuevo version of s’mores: toasted marshmallow ice cream, graham cracker pudding, salted chocolate, and smoked pop rocks. It had the essence of a s’more, says pleasurepalate, right down to the feeling of crackling embers in the smoked pop rocks.

The last quirk? There are no prices, only a blank envelope and a Pay What You Can Afford Policy. It worked for Radiohead, and hopefully it will work for Wolvesmouth.

Discuss: REVIEW w/ Pics: The Big Bad Wolvesmouth Underground Dining Experience

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