Antibes Bistro won’t turn any heads with its menu of French-Mediterranean standards. But what grabbed HLing’s attention was uncommonly strong execution—skillful enough to make her go all geometrical, praising “the roundness of the food, the way textures and flavors balanced perfectly and unpretentiously.”

She singles out a beautifully presented “cake” of tender beet slices sandwiching soft, fragrant herbed goat cheese. Other winners: Roquefort and poached pear salad, Guinness-braised short ribs, pan-seared yellowfin tuna, and rich, homemade-tasting pear tarte Tatin. She faults only a slightly undercooked side of haricots verts. “It’s the kind of place you will eat everything off of your plate,” she promises.

Antibes Bistro [East Village]
127 First Avenue (between St. Marks Place and E. Seventh Street), Manhattan
212-533-6088

Board Link: Antibes Bistro–comforting food

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