Pity the mimosa. The venerable brunch beverage had its obit published in the Wall Street Journal last week, in advance of Mother’s Day, the mother of all mimosa fests. It’s not so much that the drink (a simple mix of OJ and champagne) is a failed concept; it’s that it has fallen on hard times.

A drink of rather obvious simplicity, the Mimosa is ruined if either of its constituent parts is anything less than delicious. In practice, that means the drink is almost always a wreck. Rare is the Mimosa made with freshly squeezed orange juice.

Worse still is the assumption that good champagne is wasted in a cocktail — a generous description of the calculation being made.

If you’ve ever gotten brunch on Smith Street in Brooklyn’s Cobble Hill neighborhood and taken one of the local spots’ “all-you-can-drink mimosas” challenges, you know of what the Journal writes. Your stomach will set up into a solid block somewhere around mimosa number 3, the opposite of the effect such a festive beverage should provoke.

The solution, as suggested by the Journal’s Eric Felten: good fresh-squeezed juice, champagne you wouldn’t be ashamed to drink on its own, and a classy reversion to the drink’s nontarnished English moniker, the Buck’s Fizz.

See more articles