With all the worry about bisphenol A in plastics, especially when it comes to baby products, it’s no surprise that glass baby bottles are making a comeback. But as Matthew Yeomans at the blog Gastrokid notes, at one Parisian restaurant, Le Refuge des Fondus in Montmartre, glass baby bottles have been popular since 1966—for adults. The reason why the wine at Le Refuge is served in baby bottles is lost in the fog of the eatery’s infancy. Rumors are that it was to get around the Paris tax on wineglasses, or that serving the booze in baby bottles, or biberons, is a play on the word biberonner, which means “boozing it up.”

David Rich at Momondo.com does warn that Le Refuge is “anything but a bastion of haute cuisine,” and Ashley Thompson at National Geographic Traveler says the bottles contain “some of the lowest-end table wine,” but patrons seem to like the concept. “It makes cheap wine taste better, believe me,” says one, in a UK Guardian video. “Some of my first memories are of drinking wine out of baby bottles, so I really don’t have a problem with it,” another enthuses, although a third does note that, “You can’t really swirl, and you can’t really sniff.”

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