The Dumpling House, the cheap-eats hole in the wall on the fringe of Chinatown, has reopened after a renovation with more space, a paper menu, tables and chairs, and a more orderly service system that, while imperfect, seems to be an improvement. “I was so shocked,” ramen girl remarks; “[I] thought I walked into a restaurant.”
But a better reason to visit the spiffed-up Dumpling House, Lau says, is a new section of the menu devoted to snackish bites like chive-and-egg pancakes (jiu cai zi), which he likens to Jamaican patties with a tasty filling of egg, chives, and glass noodles. The onion-and-beef pancake (niu rou bing) is something akin to a bing, stuffed breads filled with a rich, delicious mixture of meat and chopped scallion, Lau reports. guttergourmet loves a $1.75 sandwich of shredded Peking duck, tucked into a warm sesame bun with scallions, cucumber, and hoisin sauce. Other new offerings include pork-fried buns (sheng jian bao), egg pancakes (dan bing), and cabbage-and-pork pancakes (bai cai zhu rou bing).
As for the signature pork-and-chive dumplings, they’re still cited as favorites, though many hounds prefer the ones at relative newcomer Prosperity Dumpling a couple of blocks down Eldridge. “I know there has been a sort of Dumpling House backlash and everyone is on the Prosperity train,” Lau says, “but I think there is a new reason to come to Dumpling House as they’re offering some very tasty snacks that aren’t available anywhere else in Manhattan to my knowledge.”
Dumpling House [Chinatown]
118 Eldridge Street (near Broome Street), Manhattan