Sushi Monster is on a perpetual quest to eat at every sushi joint on the Peninsula. His latest find: newcomer Jin Sho, which immediately vaults into the Top 10 of his sushi rankings. The chefs are Ichiro Takahashi and Noriomi Kaneko, both direct from the Nobu sushi mother ship in New York City. “Although the 90 percent of the customers ordering spicy tuna and dragon rolls would never notice, both itamae have the superlative knife and presentation skills to immediately place them in the top tier among their much older peers,” he says.
Fish quality is superb. In the Nobu style, there’s a mix of very traditional nigiri, with very Western twists. There’s kanpachi, garnished with razor-thin slices of jalapeño. (That kanpachi “was simply the finest, most buttery and delectable example of the species I’ve ever sampled,” says Sushi Monster.) Hotate, garnished with a tiny dab of yuzu and coarse salt, is another home run. Sweet engawa—one piece served cooked, the other raw—and rich belly hamachi are also standouts. But, really, every single piece of sushi is solid.
These guys, says Sushi Monster, have enormous potential. They’re so cutting edge, and so good, that they could force the rest of the top-tier sushi chefs to step up, and maybe reach for the quality of sushi found in New York and Los Angeles.
The only downside is the price: His lunch, with tip, was $85.
Service from the sushi chefs is outstanding. The rest of the kitchen staff is green, and it shows; hopefully, they’ll improve with time.
Jin Sho [South Bay]
454 California Avenue, Palo Alto
Board Link: Jin Sho—new top-tier sushi in Palo Alto