For Polecat, a well-traveled connoisseur of island chow in Jamaica, Crown Heights, and other Caribbean hot spots around New York, the sight of Kuntry Bickle didn’t quicken the pulse. For one thing, there was its location in out-of-the-way Springfield Gardens, Queens, an apparent Chowhound dead zone of fast food and takeout Chinese; for another, the place was alarmingly quiet at peak lunch hour.
He forged ahead anyway, and he’s glad he did. Jerk chicken was way more flavorful than expected, falling-off-the-bone tender in parts, and sheathed in deliciously smoky skin. Rice and peas, a throwaway side at lesser eateries, was “done up fluffy and with love.” Fish dishes and baked goods round out the menu at this typical Jamaican diner. “It’s hardly what a great many people on this site would call a ‘destination place,’” Polecat adds. “But, if you’re in the area, say, hailing a jet on the JFK tarmac and getting hungry, you could do far worse.”
Kuntry Bickle [Springfield Gardens]
138-30A Farmers Boulevard, Springfield Gardens, Queens