There’s been little recent word on Scalini Fedeli, the old-school Italian house in Tribeca, so Dan Boston‘s recent update counts as news. “It was fantastic,” he declares.
Sautéed ricotta gnocchi, in arugula and sun-dried tomato sauce finished with grated goat cheese, was heavenly: slightly firm on the outside, soft, creamy, and luscious on the inside. The sauce, Dan adds, had rich tomato flavor and velvety texture. Duck two ways (leg confit and breast), served over truffle corn risotto, was a satisfying, well-executed daily special. The confit had nice crisp skin, Dan reports, and the meat was delicate, succulent, and flavorful; the breast was well seasoned and perfectly cooked. Red snapper with a Sicilian-style olive-tomato jus was superb: moist, perfectly cooked fish, topped with a seasoned crust that lent flavor and a pleasing crunch. It came with a fantastic caponata of tender eggplant with a rich tomato base and welcome sweetness from currant. Others recommend spicy, peppery short ribs and raviolo with egg and truffle.
“I’ve been to Babbo a few times,” Dan writes, “and while Babbo is a more modern restaurant the food at Scalini Fedeli was every bit as good.”
Scalini Fedeli [Tribeca]
165 Duane Street (near Hudson Street), Manhattan