For Paul Giannone, this pizza thing has gotten out of hand. A pizza lover turned pizza blog regular turned amateur pizzaiolo and backyard pizza oven builder, he went pro this month, opening Paulie Gee’s in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.

Smart move, says dhs, who describes a Neapolitan-style crust with good flavor, a pleasing chew, and a pronounced char. (“If you don’t like char on your pizza, this probably won’t be your place,” he cautions.) One standout topping is the Parma d’Or: prosciutto, arugula, fior di latte mozzarella, and Parmigiano-Reggiano with an unusual and welcome lift from lemon juice. Other toppings on the opening menu include the Regina (fior di latte, Italian tomatoes, Pecorino Romano, basil), the Delboy (soppressata picante, Parmigiano-Reggiano, fior di latte, Italian tomatoes), and the Mootz (chopped garlic, Pecorino Romano, fior di latte, sea salt).

quentin thinks the dough badly needs salt. didactic katydid sees his point but notes that a salty topping—for example, sausage with mozzarella, marinara, and onion in one occasional special, the “Cuban”—can counter blandness in the crust. Overall, though, there’s plenty of potential here, and obviously no shortage of passion in the proprietor. “I have the same feeling I had when I first tried Motorino when it opened,” dhs says. “A definite must try for the pizza obsessed.”

Paulie Gee’s [Greenpoint]
60 Greenpoint Avenue (between Franklin and West streets), Brooklyn

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