2 Bros. Pizza Plus on Sixth Avenue sure isn’t about the pizza, Jim Leff says, but that “Plus” comes as a deeply soulful surprise. This “dismal pizza mill,” as he describes it, has brought in a talented, caring cook who makes wonderful homey chicken (baked or fried), yams, garlicky broccoli or string beans, and more.

“There’s minimal service and ambiance,” he says, “but the prideful cooking makes up for it with food that’s much, much better than it needs to be.” (No hound reports yet on the jerk chicken.) Prices are “insanely low,” Jim reports; “it’s hard to spend more than $5.” The non-pizza fare is served till around 7, but the main action is at lunch, so go early.

2 Bros. Pizza Plus [Chelsea]
601 Sixth Avenue (between W. 17th and 18th streets), Manhattan

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