Foo Chow is one of Chinese food expert Carl Chu’s favorite places. Get over the tourist patrons and the Rush Hour tie-ins, and order from the Special Style menu—the rest is “gwai lo fodder,” says Will Owen.

Foo Chow is known for its Fuzhou fish balls, with a core of ground pork. You can order them in soup—cfylong says his wife, who’s from Fuzhou, buys them to make at home. The restaurant also has weekday lunch specials starting at $2.99.

Thinly sliced pork comes in a red wine sauce that tastes like something a very good French chef might make if he were stuck in a Chinese restaurant: rich and smooth, with more than a hint of five-spice powder. Deep-fried boneless eel is colored an alarming magenta, but it’s light, tender, and utterly greaseless, not sweet at all.

There’s more than a little mystery in “fried seafood and meat with vegetable.” What’s the vegetable? Where’s the meat? The sauce is standard but satisfactory; the seafood is quite good.

Foo Chow–style cabbage with noodles isn’t that distinctive, but it’s tasty enough to make you clean your plate.

Foo Chow [Chinatown]
949 N. Hill Street, Los Angeles

Board Links: The Wayback Machine: Foo Chow in Chinatown

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