Throngs of carnivores are packing a converted garage in Williamsburg for barbecue, beer, and bourbon at Fette Sau. A Southern Pride smoker turns out a lineup of meats highlighted by meltingly rich pork belly. “Heaven,” sighs brooklyncook. Other winners: brisket, ribs, and sweet, delicious pig tails. Hounds blow hot and cold on sausage and pulled lamb or pork, which can be dry. Meats are lightly smoked, and seasoned and cooked in no particular regional style.
Sides are uneven in quality. At least most hounds like the rich, porky baked beans and crisp sour pickles (from Guss’s). Other choices include sauerkraut, potato salad, and broccoli salad. The house sauces—smoky ketchup, Tabasco-like hot sauce, and a vinegar variety—have won few fans. “I would rather use Kraft Bullseye,” carps JacksonR. Better yet, skip the sauce altogether.
Beverage choices are plentiful, as you’d expect from a joint opened by the owners of Spuyten Duyvil (a beer bar). On tap is a short but interesting lineup of craft brews, served in half pint, pint, half gallon, and gallon portions. The bar also stocks a well-chosen selection of bourbon, among other spirits.
The setup is casual and convivial. Order at the counter (where you can chat up the meat cutter), then hunt for a spot at one of the communal picnic tables. “You end up talking with folks,” notes brooklyncook, “and that really adds to the vibe.”
Fette Sau [Williamsburg]
354 Metropolitan Avenue (near Havemeyer), Brooklyn