Gourmet’s Good Living section features “Fork Art,” a profile of an innovative new cutlery set by Ferran Adrià of El Bulli.

If the spork is a tacky but arguably more useful version of our old familiar tableware, this collection runs headlong in the opposite direction. It finds innovative and elegant new ways to flush function down the toilet in the name of form. Here’s a brief recap of four of the wackiest utensils:

1. A spoon with a clip on it for “holding fresh herbs.”

2. A knife that looks vaguely like a Maori war club.

3. A spoon that is full of holes so as to prevent its users from accidentally ingesting liquid. (Perfect application: You’re starving to death in a North Korean prison. You’re served a bowl of deadly liquid cyanide bobbing with life-sustaining and strangely nonabsorbent kobe beef chunks. Using your El Bulli Holey Spoon, you scoop out the beef, leaving the cyanide behind. ¡Bravo, Ferran! Note: This example assumes that North Korean prisons are stocked with El Bulli–inspired tableware.)

4. A fork with—wait for it—two tines.

Those in love with the “so crazy it might just work” school of cookery will likely regard these new utensils with respect and affection. They look great, and all you have to do is sacrifice utility on the altar of trendy good looks. For the rest of us, we’ll just have to plod onward with our trusty old pals: the knife, the fork, and the nonpermeable spoon.

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