With Briganti, South Pasadena gets a little taste of La Buca without venturing down to Melrose. Briganti is a child of the same owners as La Buca, though the newer place is actually more upscale. Mama, however, is not in the kitchen at Briganti.

Still, it’s a great local option–like an Italian version of Beaujolais. Caesar salad is simple and just right. Pastas are excellent–ravioli with spinach and ricotta is hearty and rich without being heavy. If you see the special of handmade pappardelle with proscuitto ragu, pounce. Skip the pedestrian New York steak, which comes with a too-sweet sauce.

Dinner for two, no alcohol, runs $70 before tax and tip.

Briganti [Pasadena-ish]
1423 Mission Street, South Pasadena

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