In this weirdly warm winter, even a drizzly night in the low 40s could pass for a cold snap. “I sniffed the air,” Bob Martinez says, recalling a recent soggy evening. “Goulash weather.” That is, time for one of his destination cold-weather dishes, the pork and sauerkraut goulash (segedinsky gulas) at Milan’s, a Czech-Slovak hound hangout in Brooklyn. It’s rich and porky, as you’d expect, but the sauerkraut contributes a welcome tart counterpoint. And its thick sauce is “creamy and peppery and rich and subtle all at the same time.” “I ate all of mine,” Bob adds. “My GF took half of hers away. Tomorrow night she will taunt me by eating it for dinner.”
This kind of sturdy chow goes down well with beer. Before or after dinner you can find a good selection, heavy on German and Czech brews, at Korzo just down the street. At Milan’s, try a fresh, carefully poured Staropramen from Prague. “The thick white head on each glass is a thing of beauty,” Bob says.
Milan’s [South Slope]
710 Fifth Avenue (at 22nd Street), Brooklyn
Korzo [South Slope]
667 Fifth Avenue (between 19th and 20th streets), Brooklyn
Discuss: Smolen and Milan