Greens tend to be relegated to slow, long cooking such as braising, but the more delicate of these, such as dandelion, can be wilted and used in a quick meal. Here the bitterness of dandelion greens is tamed by rich egg flavor and a sweet, syrupy balsamic vinegar reduction. Serve it all over a big piece of toasted country-style bread and you’ll see why this versatile dish has a place at the table any hour of the day.
What to buy: Dandelion greens are available year-round, but they’re best from midwinter through spring. If you’re having a hard time finding them or don’t like them, you can use beet greens, escarole, or arugula instead.
Beverage pairing: Terredora di Paolo Falanghina Irpinia, Italy. The greens here present a touch of bitterness, the balsamic some pungency and sweetness, and the eggs some richness. Falanghina, a white grape from southern Italy, offers round, fresh fruit; a touch of herbal sharpness; and good body, hitting all the elements of this simple dish.