How many times, and in how many ways, can I say it? Fish tastes better on the bone! As every cook from every serious food culture from every generation knows, the head—and the meat right behind it—is the best-tasting fish there is. You know the old saw about the closer to the bone, the sweeter the meat? That ain’t no lie. So please, free yourself up! Throw off your shackles and get right with the grand sweep of recorded culinary history. Start with this recipe …
CHOW Note: We love Tony’s recipes, but we also try to steer away from fish listed on the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch list. Go ahead and substitute striped bass or black bass in this recipe.
Note: Do not neglect the cheeks, the meat at the collar, or the flaky bits between the bones. Feel free to eat with your hands.
Now think of all the ways you can improvise on this dish.
Beverage pairing: A brisk clean white from the País Vasco or Basque region of northern Spain would be an ideal accompaniment to this roasted fish. Txakoli or Txakolina (pronounced cha-ko-leena), a floral and crisp and slightly sparkling white from Spanish Basque country, would be an ideal match. Try the 2004 Etxaniz Txakoli Txomin.