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Few cuisines value sourness quite as much as Filipino. Whether from vinegar, citrus, or unripe fruits, sourness adds sparkle, helping balance intensely fishy flavors and rich, fatty meats. The Philippines’ quintessential sour dish is sinigang, a seafood soup that usually relies on tamarind pulp for tartness, but calamansi or lime juice is used here instead. This recipe is from Marvin Gapultos, who writes the Burnt Lumpia blog, and what’s unusual in this version is the salmon and miso—the latter probably dates to World War II, during Japan’s occupation of the Philippines, but salmon? Gapultos thinks it could be the legacy of Filipino workers in Alaska’s canneries in the early 20th century.
What to buy: The calamansi is a smaller, slightly milder cousin of the lime—if you can’t find it in your local Asian market, fresh lime juice makes an acceptable substitute.
Miso is a Japanese culinary staple made by fermenting rice, barley, or, most commonly, soy. The two main types are white (or shiro) miso, which has a sweet, mild flavor, and red (or aka) miso, which is aged and has a salty, umami flavor. You can find miso paste refrigerated at most grocery stores.
Game plan: You’ll need to make the steamed rice before you begin.