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The night of the last lunar eclipse, we were having people over to dinner and I had a surplus of pears I wanted to poach. I wanted something both richer and lighter than whipped cream to serve alongside, but had a paucity of marsala. So my zabaglione transformed into sabayon, and a creme brulee torch transformed it into the best thing I’ve ever made. Since then, I mostly just spoon it over fresh berries piled in a martini glass, and garnish it with a single berry and a sprig of mint, that way the caramelized whipped custard is the star of the show, not just an accompaniment. It’s really good even if not caramelized, but the torch really takes it to the next level.