At Wise Sons, our Jewish deli in San Francisco, we’ve learned two crucial things about making matzo ball soup: Keep it as simple as possible, and put extra care into everything. We tried a lot of chicken broth recipes when we started out—making double broths, adding kombu for umami—but they never came out quite right; they were too complicated. We found that really roasting things and getting it all dark, stuff like leaving the onion skins on, was giving us better results than we could ever achieve with any of the complicated things we were trying. There’s a certain taste people expect from matzo ball soup. We think this gets it just right.
Game plan: It’s easy to remove the fat from the broth if you start this recipe the day before and let it chill overnight. The finished broth will keep for 5 days in the fridge, or in the freezer for 1 month.