As the story goes, a few weeks after Restaurant Makoever renovated the Side Door Grill, a boiler burst and destroyed the restaurant. The owner handed the keys back to the landlord, a wonderful old Asian lady who decided to get into the kitchen herself and make the one comfort food she was expert at - dumplings. With her son running the front, and a new paint job, four months ago the Yu Shan was born.
We dropped in last week, and other than the odd feature of a massive black bar in the middle of a dumpling house, we were pleasantly suprised. The steamed dumplings were light and flavourful, the pan-fired dumplings (particularly the pork-and-chive) were excellent and the green onion pancake was large, crisp and as good as we've had anywhwere. Didn't try rest of the menu this time, but for dumpling lovers, the Yu Shan is worth a visit. On Dundas at Markham.