Uh, I can't remember the name of it, but it's at the corner of Atlantic and Valley in the Gaberhood, on Valley itself, south side, about three storefronts west of Atlantic.
It's a basic Chinese deli - you got your roast ducks, your roast porks, your noodle dishes, your Cantonese stir fries, your usual.
I think for the first five or so years I was so in L.A. that I was so intoxicated by the variegated delights of the unknown provinces - Sichuan! Shanghai! Oh dear lord! Friggin', friggin' Islamic Chinese! Oh! Oh! - that I completely neglected Cantonese places, especially lowdown cantonese places.
This is basic. This is simple. And would be unexceptional (and seems, on the surface, unexceptional) except for the fact that its really really good and me and my friends, who have tasted of many of the near-infinite delights of the Gaberhood, keep wanting to go back here.
Like, more than once a week.
I could imagine this being an unexceptional, simply quite good deli in Hong Kong or something. But it's here.
Favorites so far:
Fried rice with spicy chicken. (One of my two favorite fried rices in town, along with the very pure delicate shrimp stuff at Din Tai Fung. This is more: Fried! Rice! Ungh!)
Fried cod with spicy salt. (With or without charming sauce, but versions are great.) Pure texture joy. Fresh, ultra-moist fish in crispiest frying.
Their greens sauteed with garlic are always good. Chow mein noodles are always good.
Deli meats platter is worth getting. Very good roast duck, but they've got my favorite chinese-style BBQ pork in town. Kind of like candied pork.
Also: for $4, you can take home a whole tea-smoked duck. It is a very nice tea-smoked duck.
Again, this is not magic and specialness. I imagine that anybody that grew up with a Cantonese mom who knew how to cook with care and love could get this stuff. But I love.