Just returned from a wonderful week in Truro, on the Outer Cape. I brought with me a Mitchener novel and a desire to push the bounds of gastronomic consumption to the limit.
Most of the gluttony took place in private, as we nightly ordered gigantic lobsters from Mac's Seafood, which they steamed for us. Large ones (four pounds and up) were $6.99 per pound. Steaming (and really poor customer service) was complementary. Lobsters were amazing. They close, along with everything else it seems, at six, and have branches in Wellfleet, Truro and North Eastham.
We tried a few different places, which all had redeeming things. The clam chowder at the Lobster Pot in Provincetown stood out and still haunts my dreams (although the lobster roll there was depressing). The best fried clams were at Arnold's, in Eastham, which looked like a Golden Corral and discouraged me at first. The fried clams were greaseless and exploded like little pockets of briny sweetness. I also had the best lobster roll of my life at Arnold's, and if you can splurge, the "ginormous" one will restore your faith in humanity (a picture of half of it is attached). The fried scallops looked spectacular, but I was running out of arteries. We also had spectacular ice cream at Nausset Ice Cream in Eastham.
We hit the jackpot the first day and didn't deviate. PB Boulangerie Bistro is a French bakery in Wellfleet that can stand up to the best in Paris. The chocolate almond croissant, white chocolate souffle, whole grain bread and apricot danish were spectacular each on separate mornings, I promise).
PS- We took a day trip into Boston, and went to a North End institution called Daily Catch, recommended by a savvy friend. The squid ink pasta putanesca was spectacular and I vowed never to eat again (until I crossed the street and wolfed down some cannoli at Mike's Pastries).