Restaurants & Bars

[Warwickshire, Gaydon] Malt Shovel

Harters | May 22, 200810:37 AM

Just a little way from Junction 12 on the M40, this is a “find” of a village pub. The sort of place that you’ll come across using http://www.5minutesaway.co.uk/

Starter of Brixworth pate. The menu describes it as a medium coarse Northamptonshire pate. I’d said it was more medium smooth, than medium coarse, if you see what I mean. It came with nice granary toast and a plum & apple chutney (which was too sweet to my taste). On the side was a good helping of mixed salad, well dressed with vinaigrette.

Main was off the blackboard. Steak and kidney pie. Can be tricky pub food. Would it be “proper” pie? Or would it be individually baked and then some puff pastry stuck on the top?

It was proper pie! Good-sized helping cut from a real pie. Nice shortcrust pastry. But the filling let it down. It wasn’t a taste thing. Taste was fine. It was texture thing. I like my pie meat to be chunky. And it wasn’t. It had been cut too small for quicker cooking. And, as so often, not enough kidney. I like kidney in steak and kidney. It should be there – jumping out at you not just some vague backnote of flavour. Anyway, it came with some boiled spuds, carrots, broccoli and the pointless mangetout. And I scoffed the lot.

Classic pub grub. I really enjoyed it in spite of the above whinges. And it was nice to eat it outside in the sunshine reading the paper. Now, doesn’t that sound nicer than a burger at the Warwick Welcome Break Services?



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