Restaurants & Bars 28

Turkish Kitchen, Berkeley

bradluen | Dec 27, 2007 02:31 AM

Turkish Kitchen is a potentially interesting Mom & Pop (or Anne & Baba) operation which last month replaced the Medterranean on Shattuck. The menu goes well beyond the usual hummus and kebabs. I was intrigued by the tripe soup - a $6 special, "iskembe corbasi" I think - which turned out to be a simple cloudy broth served with a lemon-egg sauce on the side. I wasn't entirely sure how to consume the sauce but I presumed you were just meant to mix it in to taste. The soup was OK, though there wasn't much tripe taste. For dessert I had kazandibi ("bottom of the pot", $4.50), a pleasantly sweet, starchy pudding caramelised on one side. The crust was firm, but not creme brulee-hard, with a slightly wrinkly surface. Would have it again.

The food was all very homestyle: there are no flourishes in presentation, at least not at this early stage, and I think I could accurately replicate the dishes if I had a Turkish cookbook, a couple of practice runs, and a few hours to cook. But I haven't, so I'll come back.

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