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Restaurants & Bars 4

Triangle Chinese Find: China 35 in Cary

David A. | Aug 14, 200402:01 PM

The wife and I paid our first visit to China 35 on Kildare Farm Road in Cary this weekend. Strangely, it occupies the lower floor of a swanky-looking office building. We'd gotten word that the place offered an authentic Sizchaun menu in addition to the usual buffet serving drying mounds of McNuggets in glowing orange corn syrup sauce. The rumor proved correct: we had an excellent meal consisting of tea-smoked duck, boiled pork and cabbage in chili sauce, and fried fish in chili bean sauce (admittedly we misordered; too much meat, not enough vegetable). The pork and fish were ragingly spicey, but not without complex undercurrents. My Taiwanese wife called this the best and most authentic Chinese food she's had in North Carolina.

Chit-chat with the chef turned up a few interesting details. The restraurant began under the same ownership as China 35 on Franklin Street in Chapel Hill, but the two restaurants are now entirely independent. The waiter admitted that the restuarant employs two distinct cooking teams -- one for the Sizchaun, one for the buffet.

Portions are large, so beware. Three dishes yielded plenty of leftovers.

David A.

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