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Restaurants & Bars 12

Timo (Sunny Isles - North Miami Beach) - still a favorite

Frodnesor | May 25, 200812:30 PM

Timo in Sunny Isles has long been a regular rotation place for us and is one of the places I typically recommend, particularly if folks are looking for someplace in North Miami or just looking for something outside the usual cycle of South Beach and the Gables (and, lately, Design District / Biscayne). It's mentioned often (at least by me) but the only thread that's focused only the restaurant itself is 2 years old, so I figured I'd start one based on my most recent visit (last night).

The place is contemporary but comfortable, with restaurant seating that looks back onto a a semi-open kitchen w/ a wood-burning oven, and there's also a bar w/ seating for about a dozen people plus another half-dozen or so tall 2-top tables with bar stool height chairs at them. Although both restaurant and bar are usually very busy on weekends, we've almost always had luck finding a small table on the bar side w/o reservations (full menu is served at the bar).

Menu changes fairly often but generally has a couple soups, about 4-6 different salads, maybe 6+ "small dishes", a half-dozen pizzas (thin and crispy from the wood-burning oven), several pastas, maybe a dozen entrees (usually lots of fish, a few steaks and other stuff), and then maybe a half dozen each of vegetable or starch sides (though all mains come w/ accompaniments). The current online menu looks pretty close to what we saw on our most recent visit ->

There's also a 4-course tasting menu (usually starter / pasta / main / dessert) for $58 (plus $38 for wine pairings) which has to be one of the best deals in town, as the serving sizes are usually pretty substantial. When we do that, one of us will then usually order just a couple small plates and we'll have plenty of food.

Last night we had a post-movie dinner of pasta e fagioli (so thick you could stand a spoon up in it, redolent but not overwhelmed by a whiff of pancetta), oyster salad (nice combo of frisee, white beans, pancetta and crisp fried oysters), a small plate of crispy eggplant (really nice dish, a slab of eggplant crispy-fried, then topped with a slice of juicy ripe uncooked tomato, fluffy mozzarella, and salty prosciutto, then run under the broiler to just melt the mozzarella and slightly soften the tomato), and another small plate of short rib canneloni (tender pasta sheet, melting and succulent pulled short rib meat, topped with a "black truffle fonduta" which is like a melted cheese sauce spiked w/ truffle). All just really good stuff.

The wine list is one of my favorites in town, with a selection of maybe about 100-150 bottles, prices ranging from around $30 and up, and invariably I find something I'm excited to drink. Last night it was a St. Jean de Barroux from Cotes du Ventoux which was a great bottle and, at around $58, was right around 2x retail. Staff are professional but friendly, and the place seems to always be busy without being mobbed. My kind of place.

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