This new 'Hong Kong' style place in Blagden Alley - the old Rogue 24 space- seems meant for foodies. Small, focused, menu that is dwarfed by the list of craft cocktails and micro brews. But can a Chowhound find true happiness here?
Thsi is where the divide falls, if trying five of the menu items is any indication: it is all good, nothing thrilling, and more expensive than satisfying.
We had the whole crispy dorade and four starters: sour potatoes, smashed cucumbers, cheung fun, and the kowloon bun.
Sour potatoes are served room temp, swimming in vinegar with some chili flakes and dill. Ultra thin shoestring potatoes, half deep fried and half not. It has white vinegar punch to it, but the end result is nothing more interesting than dousing fries with vinegar. The smased cucucmbers are good and simple if less lusty than the firm chunks in a garlic sauce served at Hong Kong Palace. The cheung fun is a tender rice crepe rolled with minced shrimp and a tangy sauce, then sliced into bite sized pieces. Nice enough, but barely satisfying, each piece having little substance. The kowloon bun contains sliced beef in a slightly spicy sauce, but again there is something very polite and dainty in the way it tastes.
The fish was an expensive dissapointment. Although served 'whole', it had been fileted and chunks of fish were heavily breaded and fried, the fish losing all flavor in the process.
I doubt I'd go back.