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Melanie Wong | Aug 6, 200412:57 AM     3

Last weekend my brother needed a quick snack and pulled into Tico's Tacos on South Main St. Unbeknownst to me, he's been eating here since he was in high school. I'd never been in, assuming it was a Taco Bell imitator. While you can get hard taco shells, the offerings also include Mexican breakfast and homestyle dishes too. You help yourself to a variety of salsas and condiments from the self-serve bar.

His standard order is the chile verde burrito, $2.45. It's straight stewed pork in green sauce wrapped in a small flour tortilla. No rice or beans as fillers. The chunks of pork are tender and moist, although he says not as fatty and unctuous as it used to be, and the sauce is flavorful. He cautioned me to hold the burrito vertically to take a bite so i wouldn't drip any of the sauce. He adds some of the extra hot salsa; I thought it was fine on its own.

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