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Terrance Brennan's Steak House - Dissapointing

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Terrance Brennan's Steak House - Dissapointing

Eddie Bennet | Feb 28, 2003 09:29 AM

I had dinner at Terrance Brennan's last night and was extremely underwhelmed. The service is great with a very professional and knowledgeable waitstaff. The food however was disspointing. I have eaten frequently at Artisanal and have enjoyed all of my meals there and I have good meals at Picholine as well, yet here, Brennan appears to have missed his mark. I am not being flippant when I say that the best thing I ate last night were the onion rolls that come in the bread basket which also contained small baguettes. The rolls are extremely fresh with moist, sweet onions dispersed without. What made them particularly good were small bits of cracked black pepper scattered through out the roll. The high quality butter served with the bread was very good as well. A plate of gougeres placed on the table as an amouse bouche were as good as they are at Artisanal, although not seved as warm as they are there. I started with the bone marrow toast. If you are a fan of bone marrow, then I am sure you have shared the sublime pleasure I have of spreading warm bone marrow on toast, adorned with nothing more than a light sprinkling of salt. That is all the rich marrow needs. The marrow toast here was overkill with a vengance. The marrow is mixed with braised and shredded short ribs, placed on the toast, coated with what appeard to be very reduced braising liquid from the short ribs, covered in bread crumbs and then lightly broiled. It far too rich to enjoy, if you concentrate you could discern the marrow, and the toast was completely soggy except for the very edges of the crust. I ordered the lamb chops,rare and the waiter suggested a reduced red wine sauce on the side. The two double chops came cooked as ordered except that they were not charred at all on the outside. They also lacked any perceivable lamb flavor. The lamb chops I have had a couple of times at the Fairway steak house are an excllent rendition of how they should be prepared. The red wine reduction on the side ended up being a cloyingly sweet jam like onion and red wine marmalade. The side dishes faired no better. Broccoli rabe was over salted and the hash browns were mediocre. Neither myself or the others I was with had dessert, although each person received an individualy wrapped celephane bag containing a rice crispy treat and peanut brittle. The others at my table had filet mignon and an artic char which they felt were OK. Two of them ordered the onion soup which they said they enjoyed. Overall, having eaten in many steak houses in Manhattan, I would say that there are far better options in our city than Brennan's.

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