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Teochew cuisine at Rising Tide & more on Good Luck Cafe

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Teochew cuisine at Rising Tide & more on Good Luck Cafe

joypirate | Nov 1, 2004 04:06 PM

I hit Rising Tide (937-939 Race Street) for the first time last week and plan a few more return visits to sample the Teochew menu items more extensively. What I’ve read online suggests the seasoning is very subtle which thus far has been true. I had the sautéed squid w/lemongrass and though it didn’t blow me away, I did catch the occasional hints of genius. The dish itself would have been exquisite but the main thing holding it back was the quality of squid, which wasn’t necessarily bad, just mediocre. Had it been really fresh squid this dish would have been a breakthrough. It was rather heavily coated w/lemongrass bits, served w/lots of peppers and string beans. The dish was garnished w/some cabbage. I almost didn’t try this which would have been a big mistake. The cabbage was lightly coated w/some magically transparent spice (white pepper?) & vinegar. Very tasty.

As this place is still consistently crowded after opening I had to share a table with a family. They probably noticed me giving the ol’ crazy eye to their dishes, which included a very tasty looking seafood soup (probably the seafood la-mein soup), some really good looking fried shrimp rolls (I think, though saw none on the menu) and a very impressive clay pot of frogs legs, mushrooms & rice. They definitely ordered better than I did

Items I’m itching to try:
Salted Pork w/ Green Chives
Deep Fried Striped Bass w/hot & sour sauce
Steam striped bass w/plum sauce.
Marinated squab teochew style
Cold Dungeness crab teochew style
Grilled whole squid, maybe on a better squid day

Oh, and another winner at Good Luck Café (220 N. 10th Street) with the salt & pepper fried shrimp (head & shell on, as I prefer, when done right anyway, shell & head on under-fried is awful). Covered in red pepper flakes, very fresh jalapeno slices, sautéed scallions, over a bed of lettuce. I think they’re beginning to recognize me here so I’ll try to remember to qualify my statements. They comp’d me a bowl of their melon soup. Very tasty w/two decent-sized pieces of melon. A lovely sweet/savory counterpoint to most anything on the menu.

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