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Taproot - Bethel, CT

alexinct | Sep 28, 201704:29 PM

Has anyone checked this place out? I loved Jeff Taibe's food at Kawa Ni in Westport, so I gave this place a try last night. It's a great addition to the area. Most of the dishes are simply prepared with local produce. Here's what we tried:

Radishes with miso butter - butter and radishes is one of my favorite combinations, so I loved this.
Castelvetrano olives with lardo - nice little side dish. Nothing amazing, but we ate it throughout the meal. I've had some terrible castelvetrano olives. These were great.
Benton's ham with chile honey - I liked this a lot. without the honey, I find Benton's ham a little too salty.
Beets, cucumbers, feta, etc - This combination has done a million times but can fall flat because of the quality of the produce. Not the case here.
Field greens - another simple salad with a nice lemon vinaigrette that didn't overpower anything (I often find lemon vinaigrette overused, especially in kale salads)
Eggplant - this was the only miss for me. It's not listed on the website menu, but it was fairytale eggplant that was roasted and in some kind sweet, vinegary sauce. For me the sauce overshadowed what seemed to be really good eggplant.
Potatoes with smoked beef fat, cheese, pickled onions - loved this! I'm always a little apprehensive about smoked food because I'm simply not huge on the flavor and it can easily throw off the balance of dishes. It was used well here.

"Big plates"
Burger with fries - I only tried the bacon from this, which was too smoky for me. A lot of people love bacon like that, so others would probably enjoy it a lot. Dining companion liked it a lot.
Pig cheeks with leeks, farro, etc. - I did try this and liked it a lot. Very hearty, rich dish that I wouldn't choose during the summer months, but perfect for when it gets chilly out.
Potato gnocchi with lamb bacon, pecorino, escarole - This was my dish. It's the best gnocchi dish I've had in a while. I think restaurants tend to avoid potato gnocchi because it can often end up gummy and is labor intensive, but good potato gnocchi always beats ricotta for me.

Kawa Ni
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