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Melanie Wong | Oct 17, 200403:05 AM    

A few months ago, Sushi Osaka (707-431-1381) replaced the Mexican restaurant in the former A&W Drive-In. The shaded outdoor eating area and picnic benches had been retained, and it was a kick to eat sushi al fresco on a warm summer evening. Previously located in Bodega Bay, this was my first experience with Tomi-san’s place. The menu is huge and offers many cooked dishes as well as sushi.

For something cool on a summer’s eve, I ordered tem-zaru, $9.95. The buckwheat noodles were softer and less bouncy than they should be. But they were cool and refreshing nevertheless and the tempura was decent. Studying the sushi case, the shiro maguro (albacore) looked especially good, confirmed by my waitress. I tried a pair of nigiri ($3.50) and the fish was so superb, I ordered a second pair of shiro maguro. The rice was wetter with more seasoning than I like, but Tomi-san cuts generously and the quality of the fish made up for it.

This isn’t great sushi, however, the price is fair and the fish is fresh. And, you can sit outside.

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